1970s Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3618/1 In 18k Yellow Gold

Why This Watch Matters

At the time, this integrated bracelet Calatrava was the ultimate flex in the eyes of Patek Philippe.

The Full Story

In the face of the looming quartz crisis, Patek Philippe made a conscious effort through the 1960s to acquire Switzerland's best craftsmen, whom the brand had traditionally hired on a third-party basis, bringing world class bracelet, dial, and case manufacturing under one roof and under the Calatrava cross. The resulting watches from the late '60s and '70s are some of the most beautifully crafted timepieces ever made. This ref. 3618/1 is stamped inside simply "PP.Co" indicating the case was produced entirely in-house and is a great representation of the brand's ability to create truly great watches without reliance on outside makers. The case, bracelet, and movement finishing throughout are just spectacular.

That finishing is Floretine-esque in our view with a bit more "waviness" than the standard crosshatching pattern we now refer to as Florentine. Throughout the case as well as the bracelet, that finish is remarkably intact and crisp.

The crown is marked by the traditional Calatrava cross. The movement inside has a beautifully finished, manually wound caliber 215. The finishing on the movement shows Patek Philippe's pride in taking the utmost care even in places most people will never see. It's a slim caliber, measuring only 21.9mm in diameter and 2.55mm in height, proudly stamped with the Geneva Seal, ensuring that the highest standards were met in its creation and decoration.

The "non-lume" dial presents in this creamy lemon tone and is made entirely of gold, as indicated by the "Sigma'' symbols at the bottom of the dial. The Sigma indication was part of a larger effort by the Swiss watch industry trade association l’Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or (APRIOR) to emphasize the value of watches using gold material.

The Fine Print

Maker: Patek Philippe
Model: Calatrava
Reference: 3618/1
Year: Early 1970s
Case No: 2748096
Movement No: 1321716
Material: 18k yellow gold
Dimensions: 33mm diameter; 6.75mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: None
Caliber: Patek Philippe, manually-wound, caliber 215
Bracelet/Strap: Patek Philippe, 18k yellow gold, integrated "frosted" bracelet (Approximate max wrist size 7.5in / 191mm)
Lug Width: N/A
Box/Papers: No

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Florentine-esque finish on case and bracelet
- Patek-signed 18k yellow gold integrated bracelet
- Excellent overall condition

Things To Know:

- Light scratches on case
- Rear of midcase has been polished

This watch is overall excellent, very attractive condition. The case is strong with some scratches; the finish is noticeably crisp throughout. The rear of the midcase has been polished as is evident by the wear to the hallmark at nine o'clock.

The dial is in great condition; it's very clean with a few very light marks throughout. The hands and hour markers are in good condition with a light patina.

The bracelet is in remarkably good condition with no kinks or wrinkles and a finish that is matching that of the case and very crisp. The clasp is marked with a Calatrava cross logo on the outside and Patek signatures on the inside. The dial, case, crown, movement, and bracelet are all signed by Patek. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.