1940s Heuer 'Big Eyes' Ref. 5408 Chronograph

Why This Watch Matters

This is one of the most striking early Heuer chronographs you will ever come across.

The Full Story

Heuer has a rich history of tool watch production. Whether it's stopwatches or chronographs, the Swiss brand knows a thing or two about timing events, particularly of the sporting variety. This circa 1940s chronograph features a creamy two-tone dial, a luminous dial and hands, and engine-turned "big eyes" sub-dials that line up nicely with the central axis of the hands. Overall, it has a very balanced aesthetic and the dial is just full of interesting details to pick out – like that 

Early Heuer chronographs like this are not the easiest things to find in the vintage watch world, especially in clean condition like this one. The sub-dials on this example are quite large and are sometimes referred to as "Big Eyes." These large sub-dials were used for maximum legibility. The tone of this dial has turned creamy with the outer minute track showing in an almost silver or grey color.

This watch has a 35mm case size, which is quite substantial for the time. It is 11.5mm thick and has a screw-back case, granting the watch a better-than-expected wrist presence.

We have paired the watch with our Holland watch strap in camel to play off of that creamy dial and give a sophisticated look.

The Fine Print

Maker: Heuer
Model: Chronograph
Reference: 5408
Year: 1940s
Case No: 66602
Movement No: 405907
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 35mm diameter; 11.5 thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: Radium
Caliber: Heuer signed Valjoux, manually-wound, caliber 23
Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE The Holland Calfskin Watch Strap in Camel
Lug Width: 18mm
Box/Papers: No

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Clean white dial with a creamy patina
- "Big eyes" subregisters
- Original, creamy lume
- Blued-steel hands

Things To Know:

- Light scratches on the case

This Heuer is in overall excellent condition. The case is strong with scratches and appears to be unpolished in our view. The edges on the lugs are very crisp as is the finish on the side of the case. There are a few scratches on the caseback.

The dial is in great condition and has developed patina that has turned the main dial color to a creamy off-white. The outer minute track is finished in a separate tone that appears silver or grey. The engine-turned subsidiary dials have very light scratches in the center. The lume on the dial has aged to an overall creamy color. The lume on the hands has developed patina and is close in color to that of the dial. The hands have developed some patina.

The crown is correctly unsigned for this reference and era. The crystal is generally clean with light scratches. The dial, movement, and case are signed by Heuer. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.